Armure
Fibre: Cotton, silk, wool, rayon, synthetics, and blends.
Weave: Plain, twill, or rib, background often has a small design either jacquard
or dobby made with warp floats on surface giving a raised effect.
Characteristics: Design is often in two colours and raised. The name was derived
from original fabric which was woven with a small interlaced design of chain armor
and used for military equipment during the Crusades.
Uses: Elegant evening gowns, draperies, or upholstery.
Back To Top
Batiste
Fibre: Cotton, also rayon and wool.
Weave: Plain
Characteristics: Named after Jean Baptiste, a French linen weaver. Light weight,
soft, semi-sheer fabric which resembles nainsook, but finer. It belongs to the
lawn family; almost transparent. It is made of tightly twisted, combed yarns and
mercerized finish. Sometimes it is printed or embroidered. In a heavier weight, it
is used for foundation garments and linings in a plain, figured, striped, or flowered
design. Considered similar to nainsook but finer and lighter in weight. Now
usually made of 100% polyester distinguished by slubs in filling direction.
Back To Top
Birdseye
Fibre: In cotton and Linen or blend of rayon staple and cotton.
Weave: Usually dobby
Characteristics: Very soft, light weight, and absorbent. woven with a loosely twisted
filling to increase absorbency. Launders very well. No starch is applied because
the absorption properties must be of the best. Material must be free from any foreign
matter. It is also called "diaper cloth" and is used for that purpose as well
as very good toweling. Also "novelty" birdseye effects used as summer dress fabrics.
Back To Top
Broadcloth
Fibre: Cotton and silk, and rayon. Very different than wool broadcloth.
Weave: Plain weave and in most cotton broadcloths made with a very fine crosswise
rib weave.
Characteristics: Originally indicated a cloth woven on a wide loom. Very closely
woven and in cotton, made from either carded or combed yarns. The filling is heavier
and has less twist. It is finer than poplin when made with a crosswise rib and it
is lustrous and soft with a good texture. Thread count ranges from high quality
144 x 6 count down to 80 x 60. Has a smooth finish. May be bleached, dyed, or
printed; also is often mercerized. Wears very well. If not of a high quality or
treated it wrinkles very badly. Finest quality made from Egyptian or combed pima
cotton - also sea island.
Uses: Shirts, dresses, particularly the tailored type in plain colours, blouses,
summer wear of all kinds.
Back To Top
Brocade
Fibre: Cotton brocade often has the ground of cotton and the pattern of rayon and
silk. Pattern is in low relief.
Weave: Jacquard and dobby
Characteristics: Rich, heavy, elaborate design effect. Sometimes with coloured or metallic
threads making the design usually against a satin weave background. This makes the
figures stand out. the figures in brocade are rather loose, while in damask the figure threads
are actually bound into the material. The pattern may be satin on a twill ground
or twill on a satin ground. Often reversible. The motifs may be of flowers, foliage,
scrollwork, pastoral scenes, or other designs. The price range is wide. Generally reputed
to have been developed from the latin name "brocade" which means to figure.
Uses: All types of after 5 wear, church vestments, interior furnishings, and
state robes.
Back To Top
Buckram
Fibre: Cotton, some in linen, synthetics.
Weave: Plain
Characteristics: Cheap, low-textured, loose weave, very heavily sized and stiff.
Also, 2 fabrics are glued together; one is open weave and the other much finer. Some
is also made in linen in a single fabric. Also called crinoline book muslin or book
binding. Name from Bokhara in Southern Russia, where it was first made. Softens
with heat. Can be shaped while warm.
Uses: Used for interlinings and all kinds of stiffening in clothes, book binding, and
for millinery (because it can be moistened and shaped). Used to give stiffness
to leather garments not as stiff and often coloured is called "tarlatan".
Back To Top
Butcher Linen
Fibre:
Weave:Plain
Characteristics: It was originally made with linen but is now created with cotton or manufactured fibres. It launders well, sheds dirt, and is exceptionally durable.
Uses:
Back To Top
Calico
Fibre: Cotton
Weave: Plain - usually a low count.
Characteristics:Originated in Calcutta, India, and is one of the oldest cottons.
Rather coarse and light in weight. Pattern is printed on one side by discharge
or resist printing. It is not always fast in colour. Sized for crispness but washes
out and requires starch each time. Designs are often geometric in shape, but
originally elaborate designs of birds, trees, and flowers. Inexpensive. Similar
to percale. Very little on the market to-day, but the designs are still in use
on other fabrics and sold as "calico print".
Uses: Housedresses, aprons, patchwork quilts.
Back To Top
Cambric
Fibre: Cotton, also linen.
Weave: Plain
Characteristics: Soft, closely woven, light. Either bleached or piece dyed. Highly
mercerized, lint free. Calendered on the right side with a slight gloss. Lower
qualities have a smooth bright finish. Similar to batiste but is stiffer and fewer slubs.
Launders very well. Has good body, sews and finishes well. Originally made in Cambria, France
of linen and used for Church embroidery and table linens.
Uses: Handkerchiefs, underwear, slips, nightgowns, children's dresses, aprons, shirts
and blouses.
Back To Top
Candlewick Fabric
Fibre: Cotton - also wool.
Weave: Plain
Characteristics: An unbleached muslin bed sheeting (also called Kraft muslin) used
as a base fabric on which a chenille effect is formed by application of candlewick
(heavy plied yarn) loops, which are then cut to give the fuzzy effect and cut yarn
appearance of true chenille yarn. May be uncut also. (True chenille is a cotton, wool,
silk, or rayon yarn which has a pile protruding all around at slight angles and stimulates
a caterpillar. Chenille is the French word for caterpillar).
Uses: Bedspreads, drapes, housecoats, beach wear.
Back To Top
Canton Flannel
Fibre: Cotton
Weave: Four harness warp-faced twill weave.
Characteristics The filling yarn is a very loosely twisted and soft and later
brushed to produced a soft nap on the back, the warp is medium in size. The face is a
twill. Heavy, warm, strong and absorbent. Named for Canton, China where it was
first made. Comes bleached, unbleached, dyed, and some is printed.
Uses: Interlinings, sleeping garments, linings, coverings, work gloves.
Back To Top
Canvas
see Duck
Back To Top
Chambray
Fibre: Cotton
Weave: Plain weave or dobby designs on a plain-weave ground.
Characteristics: Made with a dyed warp and a white or unbleached filling. Both carded
and combed yarns used. Has a white selvedge. Some woven with alternating white
and coloured warp. "Faded" look. Has very soft colouring. Some made with stripes,
checks or embroidered. Smooth, strong, closely woven, soft and has a slight lustre.
Wears very well, easy to sew, and launders well. If not crease resistant, it wrinkles
easily. Originated in Cobrai, France, where it was first made for sunbonnets.
Uses: Children's wear, dresses, shirts and blouses, aprons, all kinds of sportswear.
Back To Top
Chamois Cloth
Fibre: Cotton
Weave: Plain
Characteristics Fabric is napped, sheared, and dyed to simulate chamois leather.
It is stiffer than kasha and thicker, softer and more durable than flannelette. Must
be designated as "cotton chamoise-colour cloth".
Uses: Dusters, interlining, storage bags for articles to prevent scratching.
Back To Top
Chamoisette
Fibre: Cotton, alos rayon and nylon.
Weave: Knitted, double knit construction.
Characteristics: A fine, firmly knit fabric. Has a very short soft nap. Wears
well. Nylon chamoisette is more often called "glove silk".
Uses: Gloves.
Back To Top
Cheesecloth
Fibre: Cotton
Weave: Plain
Characteristics: Originally used as a wrapping material for pressing cheese. Loosely
woven, thin, light in weight, open in construction, and soft. Carded yarns are always
used. It is also called gauze weave. When woven in 36" widths it is called tobacco
cloth. When an applied finish is added, it is called buckram, crinoline, or bunting.
Uses: In the gray cloth, it is used for covering tobacco plants, tea bags and wiping
cloths.
Finished cloth is used for curtains, bandages, dust cloths, cheap bunting, hat
lining, surgical gauze, fly nets, food wrapping, e.g. meat and cheese, costumes
and basket tops.
Back To Top
Chenille Fabric
Fibre: Cotton and any of the main textile fibres.
Weave: Mostly plain weave.
Characteristics Warp yarn of any major textile fibre. Filling of chenille yarns
(has a pile protruding all around at right angles). The word is French for caterpillar
and fabric looks hairy. Do not confuse with tufted effects obtained without the use
of true Chenille filling.
Uses: Millinery, rugs, decorative fabrics, trimmings, upholstery.
Back To Top
Chinchilla
Fibre: Cotton or wool, and some manmade and synthetics.
Weave: Sateen or twill construction with extra fillings for long floats.
Characteristics: Does not resemble true chinchilla fur. Has small nubs on the
surface of the fabric which are made by the chinchilla machine. It attacks the face
and causes the long floats to be worked into nubs and balls. Cotton warp is often
used because it cannot show from either side. Made in medium and heavy weights.
Very warm and cozy fabrics. Takes its name from Chinchilla Spain where it was
invented.
Uses: In cotton, used for baby's blankets and bunting bags.
Back To Top
Chino
Fibre: Cotton
Weave: Twill (left hand)
Characteristics: Combined two-ply warp and filling. Has a sheen that remains. Fabric
was purchased in China (thus the name) by the U.S. Army for uniforms. Originally
used for army cloth in England many years before and dyed olive-drab. Fabric is
mercerized and sanforized. Washes and wears extremely well with a minimum of care.
Uses: Army uniforms, summer suits and dresses, sportswear.
Back To Top
Chintz
Fibre: Cotton
Weave: Plain
Characteristics: Has bright gay figures, large flower designs, birds and other
designs. Also comes in plain colours. Several types of glaze. The wax and starch
glaze produced by friction or glazing calendars will wash out. The resin glaze finish
will not wash out and withstand dry cleaning. Also comes semi-glazed. Unglazed chintz is
called cretonne. Named from the Indian word "Chint" meaning "broad, gaudily printed
fabric".
Uses: Draperies, slipcovers, dresses, sportswear.
Back To Top
Chite
Fibre:linen
Characteristics:Originally from Chitta (india), where the trend of painted linens was started in the 17th and 18th centuries.
Back To Top
Corduroy
Fibre: Cotton, rayon, and other textile fibres.
Weave: Filling Pile with both plain and twill back.
Characteristics: Made with an extra filling yarn. In the velvet family of fabrics.
Has narrow medium and wide wales, also thick n'thin or checkerboard patterns. Wales
have different widths and depths. Has to be cut all one way with pile running up. Most
of it is washable and wears very well. Has a soft lustre.
Uses: Children's clothes of all kinds, dresses, jackets, skirts, suits, slacks,
sportswear, men's trousers, jackets, bedspreads, draperies, and upholstery.
Back To Top
Cotton
Fibre:
Weave:
Characteristics: It is one of the world's major textile fibres. It is obtained from bushy plants. There are four main types of cotton: American Upland, Egyptian, Sea Island and Asiatic. The flowers from which these different types of cotton are obtained vary in colour and texture, thus providing each type of cotton with varying characteristics. Cotton, in general, is very elastic. It can withstand high temperatures, has high washability and is very susceptible to dyes.
Uses: Clothing, households.
Back To Top
Crepe
Fibre: Worsted cotton, wool, silk, man-made synthetics.
Weave: Mostly plain, but various weaves.
Characteristics: Has a crinkled, puckered surface or soft mossy finish. Comes in
different weights and degrees of sheerness. Dull with a harsh dry feel. Woolen crepes
are softer than worsted. If it is fine, it drapes well. Has very good wearing
qualities. Has a very slimming effect.
Uses: Depending on weight, it is used for dresses of all types, including long
dinner dresses, suits, and coats.
Back To Top
Crettone
Fibre: Cotton, linen, rayon.
Weave: Plain or twill.
Characteristics: Finished in widths from 30 to 50 inches. Quality and price vary
a great deal. The warp counts are finer than the filling counts which are spun
rather loose. Strong substantial and gives good wear. Printed cretonne often
has very bright colours and patterns. The fabric has no lustre (when glazed, it is
called chintz). Some are warp printed and if they are, they are usually completely
reversible. Designs run from the conservative to very wild and often completely
cover the surface.
Uses: Bedspreads, chairs, draperies, pillows, slipcovers, coverings of all kinds,
beach wear, sportswear.
Back To Top
Denim
Fibre: Cotton
Weave: Twill - right hand - may be L2/1 or L3/1.
Characteristics: Name derived from French "serge de Nimes". Originally had dark
blue, brown or dark gray warp with a white or gray filling giving a mottled look
and used only for work clothes. now woven in bright and pastel colours with stripes
as well as plain. Long wearing, it resists snags and tears. Comes in heavy and
lighter weights.
Uses: Work clothes, overalls, caps, uniforms, bedspreads, slipcovers, draperies,
upholstery, sportswear, of all kinds, dresses and has even been used for evening wear.
Back To Top
Dimity
Fibre: Cotton
Weave: Plain weave with a crosswise or lengthwise spaced rib or crossbar effect.
Characteristics: A thin sheer with corded spaced stripes that could be single, double
or triple grouping. Made of combed yarn and is 36" wide. Has a crisp texture which
remains fairly well after washing. Resembles lawn in the white state. It is
easy to sew and manipulate and launders well. Creases unless crease-resistant. May
be bleached, dyed, or printed and often printed with a small rose-bud design. It
is mercerized and has a soft lustre.
Uses: Children's dresses, women's dresses, and blouses, infant's wear, collar and
cuff sets, bassinets, bedspreads, curtains, underwear. Has a very young look.
Back To Top
Domett Flannel
Fibre: Cotton
Weave: Plain and twill
Characteristics: Also spelled domet. Generally made in white. Has a longer nap than
on flannelette. Soft filling yarns of medium or light weight are used to obtain
the nap. The term domett is interchangeable with "outing flannel" but it is only
made in a plain weave. Both are soft and fleecy and won't irritate the skin. Any
sizing or starching must be removed before using. Outing flannel is also piece-dyed
and some printed and produced in a spun rayon also.
Uses: Mostly used for infants wear, interlinings, polished cloths.
Back To Top
Dotted Swiss
Fibre: Cotton
Weave: Plain weave for ground with a swivel, lappet or flocked dot.
Characteristics: Dots could be a single colour or multicoloured. Placed regularly or
irregularly on a semi-sheer usually crisp fabric which may or may not be permanent. First
made on hand looms in Switzerland and some still is. It is made in 32" widths.
The lappet is the most permanent. When hand woven with a swivel attachment the dots
are tied in by hand on the back of the cloth. The ground fabric is usually a voil
or a lawn.
Uses: Children's and women's summer dresses and blouses, aprons, curtains, bedspreads.
It is a young looking fabric.
Back To Top
Doubleknit
Fibre: Cotton, wool, worsted, silk, rayon, and synthetics
Weave: Circular or flat-needle bar type
Characteristics: A two faced cloth, either face may be utilized as the
right side. The fabric originated in Milan and Florence. Can be stabilized
for shrinkage control and dry cleans satisfactorily.
Back To Top
Drill
Fibre: Cotton
Weave: Twill. Left-hand twill. From top left to lower right. L2/1 or L3/1.
Characteristics: Closer, flatter wales that ganardine. Medium weight and course
yarns are used. Also made in some other weights. Some left in the gray but can
be bleached or dyed. When dyed a khaki colour it is known by that name.
Uses: Uniforms, work clothes, slip covers, sportswear, and many industrial uses.
Back To Top
Duck
Fibre: Cotton. Originally made in linen.
Weave: Plain, but also crosswise rib.
Characteristics: Also called canvas. Name originated in 18th Century when canvas
sails from Britain bare the trademark symbol - a duck. Very closely woven and heavy.
it is the most durable fabric made. There are many kinds of duck but the heavier
weighs are called canvas. It may be unbleached, white, dyed, printed or painted.
Washable, many are water-proof and wind proof. Made in various weights.
Uses: Utility clothing in lighter weights, such as trousers, jackets, aprons. Also
for awnings, sails, slipcovers, draperies, sportswear, tents, and many industrial uses.
Back To Top
Flannelette
Fibre: Cotton
Weave: Plain and twill.
Characteristics: A heavy, soft material with a napped finish, usually only on one side.
In cheaper qualities the nap comes off. Launders well, easy to manipulate and is
warm to wear. There are many types on the market. It may be bleached, dyed, printed, or woven
in coloured stripes.
Uses: Infants and children's wear, men's, women's and children's sleeping wear, pocket
linings, quilts, shirtings.
Back To Top
Fustian
Fibre:cotton or cotton with linen or flax.
Weave:crosswoven when a mix.
Characteristics:Was used for undergarments and linings. Originally made in Fustat near Cairo, hence its name.
Back To Top
Gabardine
Fibre: Worsted cotton, rayon, or mixtures.
Weave: Steep twill (63 degrees).
Characteristics: Clear finish, tightly woven, firm, durable, rather lustrous.
Can be given a dull finish. Has single diagonal lines on the face, raised twill.
Wears extremely well. Also comes in various weights. Inclined to shine with wear.
Hard to press properly.
Uses: Men's and women's tailored suits, coats, raincoats, uniforms, and men's shirts.
Back To Top
Gingham
Fibre: Cotton, man-made, and synthetics.
Weave: Plain-Word derived from Italy "Ging-gang" meaning "striped".
Characteristics: Medium or fine yarns of varying quality are used to obtain the checks,
plaids, stripes, and plain effects. The cloth is yarn dyed or printed. The warp
and the filling are usually balanced and if checks of two colours, usually same
sequence in both the warp and the filling. It is strong, substantial, and serviceable.
It launders will but low textured, cheap fabric may shrink considerably unless preshrunk.
Has a soft, dull lustre surface. Wrinkles unless wrinkle-resistant. Tissue or zephyr
ginghams are sheer being woven with finer yarns and a higher thread count.
Uses: Dresses, blouses, for both women and children, trimmings, kerchiefs, aprons,
beach wear, curtains, bedspreads, pyjamas.
Back To Top
Homespun
Fibre: Cotton or wool
Weave: Plain
Characteristics: Coarse, rugged yarn is used. Originally an un dyed woolen cloth
spun into yarn and woven in th home, by peasants and country folk the world over. Has
substantial appearance and serviceable qualities. Made with irregular, slightly
twisted uneven yarns. Has a spongy feel with a hand-loomed tweedy appearance. Genuine
homespun is produced in a very limited quantity and much powerloom cloth is sold as genuine
homespun. Many qualities made - the best is an ideal rough-and-ready type of cloth.
Uses: Coats, suits, seperates and sportswear.
Back To Top
Hopsacking
Fibre: Cotton, wool, linen, rayon, silk, hemp, jute.
Weave: Basket.
Characteristics: Made with coarse yarn. Has a rather rough texture and quite durable.
Often quite bulky but various weights.
Uses: Men's and women's sportswear, coats, suits, draperies. If fine used for dresses.
Back To Top
Jersey
Fibre: Wool, worsted, silk, cotton, rayon, and synthetics.
Weave: Knitted on circular, flat-bed or warp knitted methods (later popular as a
tricot-knit).
Characteristics: Right side has lengthwise ribs (wales) and wrong side has crosswise
ribs (courses). Very elastic with good draping qualities. Has special crease-resistant
qualities due to its construction. Is knitted plain or has many elaborate tweed
designs and fancy motifs as well as printed designs. Can look very much like woven
fabric. Wears very well and if washable, it washes very well. First made on the Island
on Jersey off the English coast and used for fisherman's clothing. Stretch as you sew.
Uses: Dress goods, sportswear, suits, underwear, coats, gloves, sweaters, hats.
Back To Top
Lawn
Fibre: Cotton
Weave: Plain
Characteristics: Word derived from Laon, a city in France, where linen lawn was
manufactured extensively. Light weight, sheer, soft, washable. It is crispier than
voile but not as crisp as organdy. Made with fine high count yarns, silky feel.
Made with either carded or combed yarns. Comes in white or may be dyed or printed. When
made with combed yarns with a soft feel and slight lustre it is called nainsook.
Uses: Underwear, dresses, blouses, night wear, curtains, lingerie, collars, cuffs,
infant wear, shirtings, handkerchiefs.
Back To Top
Madras
Fibre: Cotton - some in rayon and silk.
Weave: Plain, also dobby or jacquard for designs.
Characteristics: Originated in Madras, india and it is a very old cloth. Much of it
has a plain coloured background with stripes, plaid, checks, or designs on it.
Has a high thread count and fine. Made with combed or carded yarns depending on the
quality. Some is mercerized to make it lustrous and durable. Often the dyes are not
fast and with each washing, colour changes take place.
Uses: Men's and women's sportswear of all kinds, dresses, separates, shirts.
Back To Top
Monk's Cloth
Fibre: Wool, cotton, linen, silk, rayon, or synthetics.
Weave: 4 x 4 basket weave.
Characteristics: Quite heavy, due to construction. It is difficult to sew or manipulate
as the yarns have a tendency to slide, stretch and fray. May sag in time depending
on the compactness of the weave. It can also be made in other basket weaves. Quite
rough in texture.
Uses: Draperies, all types of upholstery and house furnishings. Also used for coats
and suits for women and sports coats for men.
Back To Top
Nainsook
Fibre: Cotton
Weave: Plain
Characteristics: Produced in the finishing processes from the same gray goods as used
for batiste, cambric, lawn. Fine and lightweight. Soft and has a slight lustre in
the better qualities (mercerization). Slightly heavier than batiste. Like lawn
but not as crisp. Soft, lacks body. Usually found in white but also comes in pastel
colours and some printed.
Uses: tucked or embroidered, blouses, night wear, lingerie, and infant's wear.
Back To Top
Organdy
Fibre: Cotton.
Weave: Plain. Some has lappet, swivel, or flocked designs.
Characteristics: Made with tightly twisted yarns. Crispness is due to a finish
with starch and calendaring which washes out, or a permanent crispness obtained
with chemicals (Heberlein process). Wrinkles badly unless given a wrinkle-free finish (bellmanizing).
May be bleached, dyed, printed, frosted, flocked, embroidered, or plisse.
Uses: Fussy children's wear, trims, collars and cuffs, baby's wear, bonnets, artificial
flowers, dolls clothes, millinery, summer formals, blouses, curtains, bedspreads, aprons.
Back To Top
Oxford
Fibre: Cotton - some in rayon.
Weave: Plain variations - usually basket 2 x 1.
Characteristics: Warp has two fine yarns which travel as one and one heavier softly-spun
bulky filling which gives it a basket-weave look. Better qualities are mercerized.
rather heavy. Usually is all white but some has a spaced stripe in the warp direction.
Launders very well but soils easily. When made with yarn dyed warp and white weft,
it is called oxford chambray. The one remaining commercial shirting material made
originally by a Scotch mill which bore the names of four Universities - Oxford, Cambridge, Harvard,
and Yale.
Uses: Men's shirts mostly. Also used for summer jackets, shirts, skirts, dresses, and
sportswear.
Back To Top
Percale
Fibre: Cotton
Weave: Plain
Characteristics: Medium weight, firm, smooth, with no gloss. Warps and washes very well.
Made from both carded and combed yarns. Comes white or can be printed. Percale
sheeting is the finest sheeting available, made of combed yarns and has a count of
200 - carded percale sheeting has a count of 180. It has a soft, silk-like feel. The
thread count ranges usually from 180-100. First made by Wamsutta Mills.
Uses: Dresses, women's and children's, sportswear, aprons, and sheets.
Back To Top
Pique
Fibre: Cotton, rayon, synthetics.
Weave: Lengthwise rib, English crosswise rib or cord weave.
Characteristics: Originally was a crosswise rib but now mostly a lengthwise rib and
the same as bedford cord. Ribs are often filled to give a more pronounced wale (cord weave).
Comes in medium to heavy weights. It is generally made of combed face yarns and
carded stuffer yarns. It is durable and launders well. Wrinkles badly unless given a
wrinkle-free finish. Various prices. Also comes in different patterns besides wales.
Some of the patterns are birdseye (small diamond),
waffle (small squares), honeycomb (like the design on honeycomb honey). When
the fabric begins to wear out it wears at the corded areas first.
Uses: Trims, collars, cuffs, millinery, infants wear, coats, and bonnets,
women's and children's summer dresses, skirts and blouses, shirts, play clothes, and
evening gowns.
Back To Top
Plisse
Fibre: Cotton, rayon, and others.
Weave: Plain
Characteristics: Could be made from any fine material, e.g. organdy, lawn, etc.
Treated with a caustic soda solution which shrinks parts of the goods either all over
or in stripes giving a blistered effect. Similar to seersucker in appearance. This
crinkle may or may not be removed after washing. This depends on the quality of
the fabric. It does not need to be ironed, but if a double thickness, such as a hem,
needs a little, it should be done after the fabric is thoroughly dry.
Uses: Sleepwear, housecoats, dresses, blouses for women and children, curtains, bedspreads, and bassinets. Often it is called wrinkle crepe and may be made with a wax/shrink
process (the waxed parts remain free of shrinkage and cause the ripples).
Back To Top
Point d'esprit
Fibre: Cotton - some in silk.
Weave: Leno, gauze, knotted, or mesh.
Characteristics: First made in France in 1834. Dull surfaced net with various sized holes.
Has white or coloured dots individually spaced or in groups.
Uses: Curtains, bassinets, evening gowns.
Back To Top
Poplin
Fibre: Cotton, wool, and other textile fibres.
Weave: Crosswise rib. The filling is cylindrical. Two or three times as many warp
as weft per inch.
Characteristics: Has a more pronounced filling effect than broadcloth. It is mercerized
and has quite a high lustre. It may be bleached, or dyed (usually vat dyes are used)
or printed. Heavy poplin is given a water-repellent finish for outdoor use. Originally
made with silk warp and a heavier wool filling. Some also mildew-proof, fire-retardant,
and some given a suede finish. American cotton broadcloth shirting is known as poplin in
Great Britain.
Uses: Sportswear of all kinds, shirts, boy's suits, uniforms, draperies, blouses,
dresses.
Back To Top
Provence
Fibre:Cotton.
Weave: Plain
Characteristics:This is a typed style of printing which characterizes Provence, a French country.
Back To Top
Sailcloth
Fibre: Cotton, linen, nylon.
Weave: Plain, some made with a crosswise rib.
Characteristics: A strong canvas or duck. The weights vary, but most often the
count is around 148 x 60. Able to withstand the elements (rain, wind and snow).
Sailcloth for clothing is sold frequently and is much lighter weight than used for
sails.
Uses: Sails, awnings, and all kinds of sportswear for men, women, and children.
Back To Top
Sateen
Fibre: Cotton, some also made in rayon.
Weave: Sateen, 5-harness, filling-face weave.
Characteristics: Lustrous and smooth with the sheen in a filling direction.
Carded or combed yarns are used. Better qualities are mercerized to give a higher
sheen. Some are only calendered to produce the sheen but this disappears with sashing
and is not considered genuine sateen. May be bleached, dyed, or printed. Difficult
to make good bound buttonholes on it as it has a tendency to slip at the seams.
Uses: Dresses, sportswear, louses, robes, pyjamas, linings for draperies, bedspreads,
slip covers.
Back To Top
Seersucker
Fibre: Cotton, rayon, synthetics.
Weave: Plain, slack tension weave.
Characteristics: Term derived from the Persian "shirushaker", a kind of cloth, literally
"milk and sugar". Crepe-stripe effect. Coloured stripes are often used. Dull
surface. Comes in medium to heavy weights. The woven crinkle is produced by alternating
slack and tight yarns in the warp. This is permanent. Some may be produced by pressing or
chemicals, which is not likely to be permanent - called plisse. Durable, gives good
service and wear. May be laundered without ironing. Can be bleached, yarn dyed,
or printed. Some comes in a check effect.
Uses: Summer suits for men, women, and children, coats, uniforms, trims, nightwear,
all kinds of sportswear, dresses, blouses, children's wear of all kinds, curtains,
bedspreads, slipcovers.
Back To Top
Shantung
Fibre: Cotton, silk, rayon, synthetics.
Weave: Plain.
Characteristics: It is a raw silk made from Tussah silk or silk waste, depending on the
quality. It is quite similar to pongee, but has a more irregular surface, heavier, and
rougher. Most of the slubs are in the filling direction. Wrinkles quite a bit. Underlining
helps to prevent this as well as slipping at the seams. Do not fit too tightly, if long wear is
expected. Comes in various weights, colours and also printed.
Uses: Dresses, suits, and coats.
Back To Top
Terry cloth
Fibre: Cotton and some linen.
Weave: Pile, also jacquard and dobby combined with pile.
Characteristics: Either all over loops on both sides of the fabric or patterned
loops on both sides. Formed with an extra warp yarn. Long wearing, easy to
launder and requires no ironing. May be bleached, dyed, or printed. Better qualities
have a close, firm, underweave, with very close loops. Very absorbent, and the
longer the loop, the greater the absorbency. When the pile is only on one side, it is called "Turkish toweling".
Uses: Towels, beachwear, bathrobes, all kinds of sportswear, children's wear, slip covers,
and draperies.
Back To Top
Tiking
Fibre: Cotton
Weave: Usually twill (L2/1 or L3/1), some jacquard, satin, and dobby.
Characteristics: Very tightly woven with more warp than filling yarns. Very sturdy
and strong, smooth and lustrous. Usually has white and coloured stripes, but some patterned
(floral). Can be made water-repellent, germ resistant, and feather-proof.
Uses: Pillow covers, mattress coverings, upholstering and some sportswear. "Bohemian
ticking" has a plain weave, a very high texture, and is featherproof. Lighter weight
than regular ticking. Patterned with narrow coloured striped on a white background or may
have a chambray effect by using a white or unbleached warp with a blue or red filling.
Back To Top
Velveteen
Fibre: Cotton, sometimes rayon.
Weave: Filling pile, very short.
Characteristics: Woven with a extra filling yarn with either a plain or a twill
back (twill back is the best). Warp yarns 80/inch - weft ranges from 175 to 600 depending on the
desired density of the pile. Mercerized with a durable finish. Strong and takes
hard wear. Poor quality rubs off. Some of it can be laundered. It is warm. Comes
in all colours, gradually piece dyed or may be printed. Has to be cut all one way. Press
carefully, preferably on a velvet board, or tumble dry after laundering (no pressing needed).
Uses: Children's wear, dresses, coats, draperies, lounge wear, seperates.
Back To Top
Velour
Fibre: Cotton, wool, or spun rayon.
Weave: Thick, plush pile, with a plain or satin ground, or sometimes knitted.
Characteristics: The pile is characterized by uneven lengths (usually two) which gives
it a rough look. The two lengths of pile create light and shaded areas on the surface.
A rather pebbled effect. This type of velour was invented and made in Lyons, France, in 1844.
"Velours" is the French term for velvet. "Cotton velour" is simply cotton velvet.
Uses: Hats, dressing gowns, dresses, waist-coats, upholstery. Now most commonly sold
as knit velour.
Back To Top
Vichy
Fibre: Cotton
Weave:Plain
Characteristics:The weave of this fabric is formed of horizontal bands and vertical bands respectively in a light and strong varients of the same color.
Uses: Dress.
Back To Top
Voile
Fibre: Cotton - also wool and called "Voile de laine".
Weave: Plain, loosely woven.
Characteristics: Sheer and very light weight. Usually made with cylindrical combed
yarns. To obtain a top quality fabric, very highly twisted yarns are used. Voile drapes
and gathers very well. The clear surface is obtained by singeing away any fuzzy yarns.
Has a hard finish and crisp, sometimes wiry hand. "Voile de Laine" is wool voile.
Uses: Dresses, blouses, curtains.
Back To Top
Whipcord
Fibre: Cotton, rayon, worsted or woolen.
Weave: Twill
Characteristics: Very much like gabardine, but the yarn is bulkier and much more pronounced.
The twill is steep 63 degrees and goes from left to right (except for cotton). It is
very durable, rugged and stands hard usage and wear. In time, it shines a bit with
wear. Some times back is napped for warmth. So named because it stimulates the lash of a whip.
Uses: Topcoats, uniform cloths, suitings, sportswear, riding habits. In cotton, it is also used
for automobile seat covers and little boys play suits.
Back To Top
|
